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Home Improvement Projects
Setting Your Budget
By: Brian
Dineen/RCAC
You have evaluated the
neighborhood and find that your improvement is
consistent with general aesthetic and size parameters.
You plan to remain in the house for some time. You find
that a second mortgage payment will not strain your
current monthly budget. You feel you can devote a
certain amount of time towards planning the project. And
finally, you are really sick of waiting in line to go to
the bathroom in your own house!
Your next step is to create
a project budget. Decide how long you plan on staying
in your home. The length of time you intend to stay
in a home will affect how much money you should invest
in it. If you are going to stay in the home for more
than ten years, you should spend as much as you are able
to create the home of your dreams. Make a list of all
your debts. You should include any debts you pay on
a monthly basis, such as mortgages, car loans, credit
cards, and any other items with a fixed monthly payment.
This list should not include payments for groceries,
utilities, telephone services, or other general
expenses. Call this list your monthly expenses.
Determine your total gross monthly income. Include
all sources of income that you would list on a loan
application.
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You are ready to
determine a project budget. Use the following steps for
this process; I have plugged numbers into the formulas
to demonstrate how each works.
STEP 1
Lenders use a simple
Debt-to-Income (DTI) ratio to determine if a homeowner
can afford the additional debt of a remodeling project.
DTI
Enter Your Total Monthly
Expenses $2,860.00
Add the Estimated Monthly Payment for the Project
+ $ 775.67
Total
$3,635.67
Divide the Total by Your Gross Monthly
Income $7,950.00
DTI = 45.7%
Each lender will
approve loans at a specific DTI percentage (most lenders
will tell you what their set DTI ratio is, if you ask).
In this example, let us assume that the lender accepts
DTI ratios of 45 percent. You are right at the cusp of
qualifying. Provided your credit rating is good and you
have plenty of equity in your home you will most likely
be approved for this loan.
STEP 2
The next step is to
determine the maximum monthly payment you can afford for
remodeling. Multiply your monthly gross income amount by
the lender's maximum DTI allowance, and subtract your
current total monthly expenses, excluding the estimated
remodeling payment.
Gross Monthly
Income $7,950.00
Lender's DTI ratio x .45
Subtotal $3,577.50
Less Total Monthly Expenses - $2,860.00
Maximum Affordable Payment = $ 717.50
Use this figure to
determine the maximum available to you to borrow. In
this case we assume that the home improvement loan is a
fifteen year note at seven percent. The maximum you can
borrow is forty-seven thousand dollars for your project
given this monthly payment. There are many different
options you can explore with your lender during this
process. These options can sometimes increase the amount
you can borrow; it is best to discuss this thoroughly
with lenders. We discuss financing in more detail in the
next section.
STEP 3
The final consideration
for your budget is if there is any available cash to
supplement what you borrow for the project. These are
funds not being set aside for future financial
obligations such as retirement, college, or other major
purchases (like a new car). They are not required for
monthly or general expenses as well. In this example let
us assume that you have three thousand dollars in excess
funds available for the project. This brings your
maximum project budget to fifty thousand dollars.
The budget now becomes
the overriding parameter that drives the project. Every
decision from this point forward is made according to
the limits set by the budget. The next thing to consider
is the percentage of the budget necessary for
contingencies. Contingencies are unexpected items that
present themselves during the course of the project. The
guideline is to set aside between five and twenty
percent of your budget for contingencies. The actual
percentage depends upon the complexity of the project.
For instance, a new roof generally does not require
other ancillary items be repaired or altered in order to
install the roof. Therefore the minimum contingency of
five percent is usually sufficient. On the other hand, a
large addition to your home involves many more trades
and materials that likely require the maximum
contingency of twenty percent. As a rule if any portion
of your existing walls, floors, or ceilings must be
demolished or opened up in order to install the new
materials you need a contingency towards the maximum.
Although a professional architect and/or contractor have
vast knowledge of the construction process he or she
does not have X-ray vision. Often times there are
situations that complicate construction contained within
these areas that cannot possibly be known about until
the area is opened. For our example we will assume you
are putting on a small kitchen addition (referred to as
a “bump-out”). Since you will have to open up an
existing wall but the work area is concentrated to a
small portion of the house a contingency of fifteen
percent should suffice.
This means that the
budget for actual construction that you present to the
architect is forty-two thousand five hundred dollars.
This is the parameter you want your design professional
to use. You hold the seven thousand five hundred dollars
in reserve to address any unforeseen expenses that occur
once the project begins. You protect yourself from
scrambling for extra funds in the middle of the upgrade;
if you do not use all of the contingency, and there is
no rule that says you have to, then you complete your
project under budget (heretofore an unheard of
occurrence in remodeling)!
Article: Setting Your Budget by Brian Dineen ©2004
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