Flooring Plank Installation Procedure

AT THIS TIME, PLEASE PUT ON YOUR SAFETY GLASSES AND WEAR THEM FOR THE REMAINDER OF THE INSTALLATION.

If the floor is concrete or below grade, lay out the foam with moisture barrier, overlap the edges 4 inches and and use duct tape to seal the seams. For other floors, lay the foam underlayment the same direction the planks will be laid and butt the edges. Do not over lap. Tape as needed to hold. Inspect the planks for any defects, chips or other damage before installing. The installer is the final authority of the flooring.

DO NOT INSTALL ANY MATERIAL THAT MAY HAVE BEEN DAMAGED. THE MANUFACTURER'S WARRANTY MAY NOT APPLY.

Leave a minimum of 1/4" space between the flooring and the wall and do a trial (dry or no glue) layout of the first two rows of planks. The planks should be installed so that a tongue faces out and to the right of the installer. At the end of the first row, cut the plank as necessary to fit. Insert blue spacers approximately 8 inches apart to maintain the expansion space between the flooring and the wall. Be alert to walls that are not straight and use spacers as needed to keep the flooring straight.

Use the remainder of the plank from the first row to start the second row. If the piece is less than 8 inches long, cut a new plank in half and use that piece to start the second row. Lay the rest of the planks in the second row and ensure that the rows are straight and that no gaping exists either on the side or butt joints. Once you have completed the dry fit, remove all of the planks in order. You are now ready to start the actual installation process.

Place the first plank in the first row in the left hand corner of the starting area with a tongue facing you and the other to your right. Then, take the first plank or partial plank and use to start the second row. Apply the glue to the upper surface of the groove as shown in the figure below.

Please note: It is very important to follow the proper gluing instructions. Too little or misapplied glue can result in joint failure and too much can make the installation difficult. Apply a minimum of 1/16" to 1/8" bead of glue in a smooth, continuous motion. Use a dry cloth to remove excess glue.

Gently push or tap the plank into place with the tapping block and hammer. It should not be necessary to "pound" the planks together. Should it be difficult to get the boards together, check the groove for debris. Carefully apply pressure to the plank and ensure that no gaps exist and that the installation is square.

For DIY installations, use 2 - 3 inch pieces of blue tape to secure the joints. Minimize foot traffic on the floor for a least 8 hours and avoid working on the newly installed floor. For a more professional installation, use the ProPac Floor Systems Clamps to secure the two planks.

Note: The saw dust created contains aluminum oxide which can scratch the floor. Therefore, cut the planks in an area removed from the installation site if at all possible.

Continue the installation, using the ProPac Clamps on each board (or the blue tape for DIY installations), working from left to right, row after row. Remember to keep the joints or plank end pieces at least 8 inches apart for a pleasing look. The last row may have to be cut to fit into the space and still allow for the ¼" expansion space.

Place the planks to be cut on top of the planks in the next to last row. Very carefully align the edges. Take a scrap piece of plank (with tongue and groove) and trace the contour of the wall onto the plank to be cut. Then saw the plank accordingly.

Fit the cut planks into place using the pull bar. Then add the spacers to hold the joint firmly in place and apply the tape. Remove the tape whenthe glue is set in approximately 1 hour.

Transitions and other installation accessories are available at most local dealers. These include trim track (universal metal track for installation of square nose, t-molding, step nosing, etc), wall to floor transitions, and stair and landing treatments. When installing a transition, ensure that the transition does not restrict expansion of the floor. Do not nail an in-floor transition directly to the sub floor - this will result in a "pinched" installation. To install an in-floor transition, glue or nail the trim track to the sub floor and then snap the transition into the track.

For a clean, finished appearance, the door jam should be undercut to allow the flooring to be installed under it. To undercut the door jam, lay a piece of scrap flooring on the underlayment and using that as a guide, saw off the bottom the door jam so the plank will fit.

Vacuum the entire floor and then clean it using a laminate floor cleaner. Should any glue residue remain, it may be necessary to remove it with acetone. Never use any abrasives on your laminate floor and avoid the use of other cleaners as they may contain substances harmful to the surface, leave residues, or water spots. For stubborn stains use acetone. Do not use steel wool, scratch pads, or other tools that may scratch, dull, or polish the surface.

Clean the entire floor. If necessary, use a dry towel to buff dry. This process will remove any film left from the glue. For dried glue, use flooring cleaner. For stubborn glue, use acetone on a clean cloth. Never use any abrasives on your laminate floor. Always apply cleaning solution to the cloth or mop, and not directly to the floor.

Additional Information

To fit around pipes, measure and drill holes at least 1/2" larger than the diameter of the pipe to allow for movement. Saw at a 45 degree angle to the holes in the tile.

Always protect the floor by using felt protectors for chairs and other heavy furniture. When moving furniture, lift and move before setting on the floor.
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